Through the Sierras

The Travellers:

Herb,
artist. writer, philosopher, father.

Allison,
high school graduate, camper, photographer, all around good girl.

Bryan,
high school student, fisherman, photographer.

Jeremy,
elementary school student, fisherman, rock-hound.

D' Trip        1994

                                                            Day 1

Allison got to the house in Berkeley real early, Sandy, her mom had
given her a ride to Berkeley on her way to work.  Most preparations 
had been done;  everything was packed and ready.  Breakfast was 
soon started.

Bryan and Jeremy woke up at 7:30;  a set of freshly made pan-
cakes fueled the departure and off we went. heading for highway 13. 
I remember a quick stop at a grocery market and then we went.  By
the time we got out of town traffic was light and we had smooth
sailing past Livermore, past the windmills and on to Sonora pass.

Sonora pass is always surprisingly long and drawn out, it seems to

be shorter on the map somehow.  Our first stop was a rest area on
the far side, near the pass where we walked a bit and had a nice
overview of a reservoir with some nice rapids attached.  There is
a delicious looking dirt road leading down to it, but we declined
the temptation for the sake of adhering to our schedule.  We did
check out some fork of the Stanislaus river, found a nice little
waterfall and a stretch of climbable, walkable river.  Bryan's
fishing desires started to well up as we drove along the river to
get to the pass.  My determination kept us from consuming the day
with fishing and we charged on over the very steep pass.  

On the far side at a sharp bend in the road we stopped at a pretty
little canyon that was very photogenic and also climbable - about
a mile long, perfect for river walking practice.

A couple of photos and some slingshot practice made for enough 
of a stretch to continue the journey whose bulk for the day had been 
done.  We had enough afternoon left to venture into Bodie, the 
ghost town.

The orange rich afternoon light made for some nice pictures, some of
which ended up on slide film event though we had set out to make prints.

We saw some big wild geese walking about  and got into a bit of a skirmish
with some militant rangerette-gorgon who bared her teeth because the kids 
had picked up some piece of trash in the park.  They had not perceived it as 
the holy relic that it had become:  yesterday's litter is today's antique. We 
had a great time though and settled peacefully with the park constabulary.

Tempus fugit - So we headed up on the pass just before Mono Lake

and turned into the evening light; up, up and up towards the lake. 
Of course we missed the exit to our old campground, the one we had
stayed at before, and had to double back.  Light was getting dimmer
so we simply settled for a new spot to camp in.  Near the same creek
just further up.  Bryan made use of a small table attached to a
tree and cooked while the others prepared camp with three tents. 
We managed all necessary tasks including cleanup by the time it
got dark.  The kids took a flashlight walk but it got cold quickly.
So, since we were all tired anyway we turned in early.  Late at
night we were awakened by all kinds of would be campers seeking a
place after dark,  but we managed to sleep through it more or less.

                                                            Day 2

Cold morning, too cold to cook.  We wrapped up the tents with stiff
fingers while Bryan attempted to catch some trout.  We tried to
exit through a dirt road but had to turn around.  The car exhibits
its first strange behavior by flashing the check engine light at
me.  Off to Lee Vining as fast as possible.  To the coffee shop,
where the coffee is hot and the hot chocolate flows freely. 
Ahhhhhhh!  (As we later found out the sensors of an Explorer do not
 work so well at high altitudes.)

By ten thirty we were recharged and headed to south side of Mono
Lake.  What a photo bonanza, but I must say it would have been
better to get there earlier (ca. 6:00 am) for the sake of the light.

From shrimp to sea gulls to ducks in and around the pillars, great
rock formations everywhere.  By that time it was getting pretty
hot.  Ample amounts of water and soft drinks tied us over,  but by
noon it was time to move under air conditioning.  We wanted to 
get up to the craters, but got hopelessly lost on the dirt roads that
seemed to go up into the hills yet went only in circles.  The road
construction people had removed all road signs because they were
widening the freeway right there, so we could not tell which way. 
Ending up back at the freeway we decided to head south, past
the glass flow mountains, on to Devils Post Piles.

Artwork inspired by
the Devils Postpiles.

Lunches packed, we
caught the bus and 
headed over the pass
down to the Post Piles. 

Bryan's fishing desires
 were quenched with a
brisk, therapeutic walk 
to the Piles.  
Nothing appeared to have
fallen in that earthquake a couple of years ago.  

We uuhht! and ahhhht! and took the obligatory pictures.  Then we 
hobbled on toward Rainbow Falls. Well, this is not a short walk! - 
We got kind of worn half way through the burned forest - but what
a place to take pictures, if we only had more time, what shots we 
could have made.  " Gimme some models! "

        Well, we made it; and it was worth it.  A late snack 
        at the Falls revived us all and we decided to take 
        the short  cut (2, instead of 4) miles back.

So we got to the station just in time to hear the next to last bus, 
500 yards down the road, we ran - phew, and what a good thing that 
turned out to be, we actually got to sit down on the way out.  
Lots of people had to wait and stand.  All is well that ends.  We were 
all glad to be back in the car and ride down the caldera to Hortons 
Creek campground.  

After a couple of wrong turns Bryan found the right road.  

What clouds in the sky.

A huge king snake crossed Jeremy's path, black and
stunning white - gorgeous.  Shivers are visibly going up and down
Allison's spine but she braved the spot. (Real smelly toilets).  We
cooked, and watched the incredible cloud that must have been
colored by the forest fires we saw bulging out of the distance.  
The creek gave everybody a chance to wash (- with an escort because
of the creatures.)  The starry skies are just beautiful and send us
on our way to Slumberland.
                                                            Day 3

The taking down of the tents got more tedious by the day.  But we
managed.  We drive up a pretty rough dirt road only to find out
that there really is no access to what appears to be a glacier up
in the mountains.  For lack of a choice and propelled by an urge to
eat breakfast we turn back.  "The Sizzler" advertises a very
persuasive breakfast buffet.  The food is at best OK, but there is
at least enough of the things we like so we make do and stuff
ourselves.

We head on to Big Pine,  the old Chevron station - truck stop -
Shower is gone.  Shell gasoline it is, we fill the water cans, get
some ice and head on towards the Bristlecone Pines.  By now it is

hot enough to stop at the bridge and chase away some fishermen. 
Bryan refuses to get into the water, he has to catch fish - well
they look at him but do not find it in their appetites to make this
pioneer happy.  Meanwhile Allison, Jeremy and Herb brave the
rapids.  Wanting to go on we find it hard to get Bryan moving, he
wants to catch that prize.  "...... grunt!";  hours later we are on the
road.  Up and up past the Hells Angels near the Arsonic Spring. 
Jeremy plays pocket Nintendo. Up and up.  The view down at the
Sierras is stunning but the thin air triggers some headaches. 
Jeremy appears to be adversely effected by the thin air as well. 
We leave a note for Chris my nephew at the campground bulletin 
board and head on further up to the first grove where we arrive at 
about 1pm.  We lunch briefly among the chipmunks and head out 
on the Schuler Grove trail.  4.6 Miles!  The trees are stunning and 
well worth the trouble.  We all take pictures and talk about pictures.

Some little bird befriends us and inspects us as if it were tame. 
The trail is long but we are cheered on by the wonderful trees and
the promise of an even better picture along the way.
Tired we return to the campground find a spot and set up camp. 
Bryan does some pretty good cooking and little birds clean up the
crumbs.  There is some kind of Sierra Club convention going on an
people seem to be endlessly looking for a place to stay or a group
to link up with.  ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
                                                            Day 4

The stunning drive to the upper grove is coupled with more
headaches.  I get snow blind - migraines, Allison gets plain, but
persistent head aches.  Thin air at high altitude.
We find square brown crystals - Galena? Everywhere.  Nothing 
spectacular, but a lot of pretty little cubes.  We decide to go on 
to the end of the trail to go looking for bones and sculls.  
Nobody is willing to walk - tired?  Cranky? The headaches? 
- We all mope around some, find some obsidian shards and a 
few bones for Jeremy.  Only one rabbit crosses our path where 
are all those marmots used to hang out here, some statistic!
 I seem to remember hordes of these guys all over the place, 
I wonder what happened to all of them?


Heading back we take a few detours to find out where some of the
roads lead to.  They all appear to be long and rough and require
camping at their end.  Our gear is in the regular Campground so we
decide to turn back after a while vowing to return some day.  There
are several UC research stations out there, modern facilities with
livestock and ...?  We hop around the upper grove one more time. 
Jeremy and I stay at the car.  Bryan and Allison walk around in
the grove.  I still have a bad migraine headache and Jeremy wants
to pursue his Nintendo habit.

In the evening we attend the Ranger 
Slide Show about indian petroglyphs 
from possibly 12000 years ago.  
I happen to think that these petrographidi 
are a bit overrated - paleolithic graffiti.  
The ranger seems to be almost in tears 
over their beauty. The sky is beautiful, at 
any rate, and almost as clear as it is in 
Hawaii.  
Sleep softens all.

                                       Day 5                                           

Water and supplies consumed, we drive 
back to our swimming hole for
a refreshing dip.  Even Bryan goes in.  
We conspire to head back to
the "all you can eat" Sizzler in Bishop 
where we stuff ourselves with brunch.  
We decide to head up to Lake Alpine to afford Bryan his fishing opportunity, 
Jeremy his swimming opportunity and hopefully no more headaches.  We make it 
there by a little after noon.  Nice swim and play, Jeremy seems to enjoy himself. 

Around 4pm we decide it's time to think about setting up camp at the upper 
fork of the Stanislaus river - I had forgotten that the campground is along the 
new Spicer Reservoir road.  - Well, we only lost about an hour searching.  
We find it; a bit dusty but beautiful.

Lots and lots of Yellow - jackets though. Bryan goes fishing and actually
catches some beautiful trout. We eat dinner in the dark and go to sleep
under a clear blue sky with lots and lots of stars. Day 6 Herb gets up
early the next morning to get some of that early morning light into the
camera. Just beautiful granite and a babbling brook - idyllic. There is
a dried up creek bed where the rocks are marked with stripes equilateral
and clear around the rock where the various water levels left a ring around
each rock in their wake.

 During a great breakfast at the lake we decide to head
on up to Union Reservoir for the day and since it is such a nice
camp to leave our tents up, and spend another night in the same
spot.  With the four wheel drive we can head directly to the dam
down the old builders access road, a wild ride indeed, the motor
exhibits its check engine problem a couple of times but fortunately
it always starts up again.  We park right at the foot of the dam. 
Crossing the dam like in the old days is not allowed anymore, a big
barbed wire fence bars the way.  We climb down and around to get to
the east side where there is no one.  Beautiful granite beach; even
a couple of logs to ride on.  The water is a bit cold but does not
stop anybody from a good water fight, the bucket is quickly
denatured and serves alternately as a weapon of defense and
aggression.  Many rude landings in the water are forced onto
incidental victims, usually on a random basis of three to one. 
Allison turns out to be a real trooper and inflicts many wet
casualties.  The day goes quickly into such merriment.  Jeremy
bears through it a bit tired by now!  The advanced afternoon finds 
us back at the camp.  It is warm and we retrace my excursion of the
early morning down to the swimming pool Herb had discovered
early in the morning.  Bryan, obsessed with fishing, heads for the 
far side of the pool.  Jeremy plays at the beach and Allison takes 
some pictures of me swimming in the pool.

Shortly after the swim Jeremy 
is attacked by what seemed
to be at first a harmless Garter 
snake.  It kept coming after him
with significant ferocity;  Bryan 
coming to Jeremy's rescue had 
to kill the snake to stop it. 
        Close call!
One more trout and a hunk of 
pyrite and we set up for the night.
Jeremy and Herb spend time
walking in the river while it is
light, all the while watching for 
snakes.  Bryan and Allison are 
at the "lucky" fishing hole for
one more trout.  As darkness 
sets in JLR & Herb startle a deer 
at the rivers edge and send him 
bounding into the drink.  Scared 
us too! A trout dinner and some 
stargazing sends us all off
to Slumberland.  A good night's
rest in spite of some rowdy campers
that make the night a bit uneasy.


                                                       Day 7


Allison is a great help taking down camp.  All Bryan wants to do is
more fishing.  We manage to get the car packed for the x-ed time
and head back over the pass - down to Markleeville for a great
breakfast at the Cut Throat Saloon.  Everybody seems happy at the
prospect of heading back to what passes for civilization - Reno. 
But first through Carson City where gasoline is expensive, Coke is
plentiful and the weather is hot.  Somewhat replenished we head for
Virginia City to buffer the afternoon before Sparks.  The tourist
trade has swallowed that place.  100 Stores all and each
essentially selling the same junk.  Kitsch as Kitsch can,
revolting; but quite an experience for the uninitiated.  The Silver
Queen and the Bucket of Blood saloon are a hit.  The old mine
appears to have been closed. 

So we leave for Reno, to be exact for the Blue Fountain Inn
in Sparks.  Ahhhhhhh, real showers!!!  By the time we all got
cleaned up it's late afternoon.  And time to head to the Circus
Circus in Reno.  Business appears not too well in Reno; several of
the older casinos are closed and the clientele that ambulates
appears shabbier than ever, but the kids don't seem to mind and the
upper floor of the Circus Circus is all that it is billed to be. 
Bang the Gopher and Shoot the Piano Player are a decisive hit with
the audience.  We walk away with more stuffed animals than Herb
could have paid for.  No matter; everybody is happy enough to
settle for a burger at the sleaziest McDonalds Burger joint anybody
has ever been to; cheap though.  REM after some benign TV.

                                                       Day 8

Bad choice breakfast at the Silver Saloon in Sparks.  Oh well; we
load up with supplies on the road to Pyramid Lake.  Bryan loses $20
on a bet about a sale and we get all the ice and soft drinks the
car will hold.

The road to Pyramid Lake is framed 
with new developments - wall to wall 
housing in what used to be desert!? 
The wild mustang ranch is still in 
operation and full with horses; they 
must still be rounding them up.  We 
obtain our permits and head for the 
north end to see the geyser. 

The lake has dropped at least 30 feet 
in the last ten years and a new geyser 
is now uncovered west of the big one.  
We are the only ones around the
lake and it is indeed grand.  We decide 
to take the shoreline road back around 
the lake to get to our campsite at the 
pyramid.  Tumbleweed everywhere so 
thick in parts that we have to move some
manually.  So tough that we actually 
punctured one of the tires in the process.  
We find out the next day.  The ride to the 
pyramid is

stunning; especially a stop off at the upper obelisks is worth the
photographic while.  We get the prime camping spot near the indian
woman ( a rock formation that looks like an .... - yes, yes you
guessed it! ).  There are spiders (much to Allison's chagrin) and
snakes and lots and lots of birds, a paradise.  It is warm, the
water is nice and cool, the sun on the water is stunning with its
slight autumn tint.  The lake is flat as a mirror except for our
ripples.

Bryan finds a way to run down the sandy slopes into the water; we splash
and swim and make merry. Even dinner is OK with the new supplies and some
trout. The night changes things a bit; after Herb tells his bed-time stories
the wind picks up shortly after night fall and relentlessly blows all night
from what seemed to be all directions. The tents can barely be kept on
the ground. A rough night. PS.: The ripples on the pond gave me an idea
for some more art.

Day 9 The wind subsides only after sunrise. We break camp and pack the
car after a breakfast that finishes all the fruit and supplies we had left.
After a bagel tossing contest and general leftover tossing contest we start
to take off towards the jeep road. A brief and surprising encounter with
a badger right under a garbage can by the lake; we find a lady would be
camper all alone and stuck in the same sand wad Herb got his Chevy stuck
in some 25 years ago. She had tried to drive out instead of digging out
and was hopelessly stuck. Since we had camped between the buttes on the
far side she didn't know we were there and had sent her friend running
(literally) for help. We offered to intercept her pal and get her to a
towing service. As it turned out she managed to run all the way to the
highway and was already with a construction crew that had radioed for help.
We went on to the fish hatchery on the west side of the lake. Lots of little
fish in those tanks. By popular demand a motor boat got rented and we aimed
to head on out over the lake to see the pyramid from the ther side. It
turned out to take the better part of an hour just to cross the @#$%^&*
lake even though the boat seemed to move pretty fast. Well, we didn't quite
make it to a landing but had fun trying. Everybody got to drive the boat
and we got back in time to find our flat tire; fortunately it was a slow
leak and could simply be pumped back up. Afternoon had advanced and it
was time to head for Lake Taco (Tahoe). We arrived in time for a nice walk
on the south beach. The lake was very low from the drought and the beach
extended almost a mile to the water. We then engaged in some serious buffet
eating (Allison's treat!). Our stomachs made it ever expanding over the
pass and carried us all the way to Allison's drop off and the rest of the
way back to Berkeley. Pictures and text were created by Herb Ranharter,
please come and see more of Herb's art.

Contact me at MyART4U@delarte.com